The paraphrase of an interview by Olatoun Gabi-Williams
Noo Saro-Wiwa, the daughter of the renowned activist Ken Saro-Wiwa, emerges as a distinctive figure whose life is interwoven with the cultural arras of Nigeria, the United Kingdom, and the United States. Her narrative unfolds against the backdrop of a remarkable familial legacy, a tale of struggle and resilience that transcends borders. Born in Port Harcourt, Nigeria, Noo’s journey traverses continents, encapsulating a childhood in the UK, where she was raised amid the echoes of her father’s activism, and a brief sojourn in the United States, where academia played a pivotal role. Her debut literary work, “Looking for Transwonderland: Travels in Nigeria,” resonates with candour and has garnered critical acclaim for its unique exploration of Nigeria’s diverse landscapes. In this feature article, we delve into Noo Saro-Wiwa’s multifaceted life, exploring her experiences, reflections, and the rich tapestry of her travel writing, promising readers an insightful journey through the lens of a remarkable individual.
Discovering the Love for Travel
Noo Saro-Wiwa’s deep-seated passion for travel was ignited during her early visits to Nigeria as a child, instilling in her a fascination for the world beyond her immediate surroundings. Her father, Ken Saro-Wiwa, took her on a pivotal journey to the United States when she was just ten years old, a journey that left an indelible mark on her young mind. Recalling that transformative experience, she reminisces, “My father took us to the U.S. when I was 10 years old. I was really excited. That was the first time we went anywhere that was not Nigeria.”
These journeys to foreign lands, away from the familiar landscapes of Nigeria, sparked a curiosity and wanderlust in Noo that would define her future endeavours. Her perspective on travel was further enriched by a unique familial context. Despite assumptions that their family was affluent, she emphasises the unconventional economic status of her upbringing, stating, “In Nigeria, people thought and still think that we have money, but it wasn’t and isn’t like that.” This economic dichotomy, where they attended prestigious boarding schools for the sake of education while living modestly, shaped her outlook on the world.
In this environment, independence became a fundamental aspect of Noo’s identity. Her upbringing instilled in her a sense of self-reliance and a desire to explore beyond the confines of her immediate surroundings. She reflects on her family’s distinct approach to life, sharing, “Because we never saw my father work for anybody—he was always self-made, always his own boss—we grew up with that mentality. You don’t go off into a corporate job or whatever. You think I’ll try and make it in my own way?” This mindset would serve as a driving force in her future pursuits, leading her on a path of adventure and exploration that ultimately culminated in her career as a prominent travel writer.
The Saro-Wiwa Legacy
Ken Saro-Wiwa, an iconic figure in Nigeria’s history, was not only an activist but also a father and family man whose legacy continues to resonate. Born into a humble background in a typical Nigerian village, Ken’s early life was far removed from the activism that would later define him. Noo provides a glimpse into his upbringing, sharing, “He grew up in this poor family, in a typical village in Nigeria. His mother was a farmer, and my grandfather was a forest ranger, initially.”
Ken’s journey towards becoming a prominent activist unfolded gradually. He pursued education as a means of transcending his circumstances, ultimately becoming a lecturer in English at the University of Nsukka. His life took a significant turn during the Biafran War when he became a commissioner on the Nigerian side, necessitating his escape to Lagos with his family, including his eldest son, Ken Jr. It was during this tumultuous period that Ken’s activism began to take root.
Noo’s recollections of her father offer a more personal perspective, showcasing the complexities of his character. She describes him as sometimes moody and quiet when engrossed in writing, yet at other times exuberant and jovial. “He was a bit of a mix,” she remarks, emphasising the multifaceted nature of her father’s personality.
Ken Saro-Wiwa’s activism took on a pivotal role when he became deeply involved in the Ogoni cause. He made efforts to raise awareness about the exploitation of Ogoni lands and the devastating environmental consequences of oil extraction. Noo recalls her father’s dedication to the cause, stating, “He gave us his pamphlets and copies to read when I was 11 years old or so.” However, his activism didn’t stop there. Ken’s commitment to justice led him to transition into a pro-democracy activist, raising his voice against oppression and advocating for a more equitable Nigeria. His life, characterised by resilience and unwavering principles, left an indelible mark on Noo Saro-Wiwa and her family, shaping their perspectives and inspiring their own pursuits in life.
Return to Nigeria
After the tragic death of her father, Ken Saro-Wiwa, and the subsequent events that unfolded, Noo Saro-Wiwa initially harboured a deep reluctance to return to Nigeria. The shock and pain of her father’s judicial murder in 1995 had left a lasting scar, and the idea of revisiting the land of her childhood was met with mixed emotions. She candidly shares, “I wanted nothing more to do with Nigeria” during that tumultuous period.
However, despite her initial reservations, Noo eventually found herself making two significant trips back to Nigeria. The first was for her father’s official funeral in 2000. She explains the circumstances surrounding this event, saying, “We did not have his remains for the first official funeral. The Sani Abacha government dumped them somewhere.” This lack of closure haunted her family, and they organized a formal ceremony involving the entire village to pay their respects to Ken Saro-Wiwa’s memory.
Yet, the journey did not end there. The second burial in 2005 was a profoundly emotional and significant event for Noo and her family. She describes it as the “real funeral,” a more intimate gathering attended by immediate family members, including her uncle and half-siblings. This second burial held a deep, personal significance, as it allowed the family to finally lay their beloved father to rest with the dignity and respect he deserved.
Reflecting on these visits, Noo Saro-Wiwa’s emotions were complex and profound. Her journey to Nigeria was not just a physical one; it was a pilgrimage of remembrance and closure. The significance of these trips extended beyond personal healing; they were a testament to the enduring legacy of her father and his unwavering commitment to justice and the Ogoni cause.
Journey into Travel Writing
Noo Saro-Wiwa’s journey into the world of travel writing is a fascinating tale of unexpected opportunities and a passion for exploration. Her academic background in geography provided her with a strong foundation for understanding the world’s landscapes and cultures, but it was a serendipitous moment that set her on the path to becoming a travel writer.
Her entry into travel writing began with a competition hosted by Rough Guides. She vividly recalls this pivotal moment, sharing, “I won a Rough Guides competition which involved writing an essay on a city.” Her winning essay on Johannesburg opened doors to a world of travel writing. Initially, she had envisioned herself exploring South America or the South Pacific, but fate had other plans.
Noo’s journey took an unexpected turn when she was offered an opportunity by Lonely Planet to update their travel guides for Cote d’Ivoire and Guinea. This marked the beginning of her professional career as a travel writer. She reflects on this period, saying, “It was a life-changing trip.” Her work with Lonely Planet exposed her to the intricacies of travel writing, from inspecting hotel rooms to documenting entry fees for national forest reserves.
Her early experiences in Africa, both as a tourist and a writer for guidebooks, ignited her passion for travel and exploration. By the age of 28, Noo had already traveled to approximately ten African countries, each experience contributing to her growing expertise in travel writing. Her unique blend of academic knowledge and hands-on experience would become the foundation upon which she built her career as a travel writer, eventually leading to her critically acclaimed debut book, “Looking for Transwonderland: Travels in Nigeria.”
“Looking for Transwonderland” and Memorable Experiences
Noo Saro-Wiwa’s debut book, “Looking for Transwonderland: Travels in Nigeria,” stands as a testament to her unique perspective and writing prowess. The book received widespread acclaim and recognition, with The Guardian (UK) listing it as one of the “10 Best Contemporary Books on Africa” in 2012. It was also translated into Italian and French and received the Italian Albatros Travel Literature Prize. Reflecting on the success of her book, Noo Saro-Wiwa acknowledges its critical reception and the impact it has had.
Amid her journeys across Nigeria, Noo experienced numerous memorable moments that left a lasting impression. One of the most remarkable experiences she fondly recalls was encountering gorillas and chimpanzees in Obudu Cattle Ranch, Cross River State. She expresses her genuine fascination, saying, “Seeing the gorillas and chimpanzees in Obudu Cattle Ranch in Cross River State. I didn’t know Nigeria had all that.”
Her encounter with these magnificent creatures was a revelation, challenging preconceived notions about Nigeria’s natural assets. Noo’s deep appreciation for the country’s wildlife and biodiversity is palpable in her words. She underscores the importance of recognizing and preserving Nigeria’s environmental treasures. She adds, “We have such great assets but we don’t appreciate them.”
Noo Saro-Wiwa’s ability to uncover and share the hidden gems of Nigeria through her writing not only showcases her talent as a travel writer but also serves as a call to better appreciate the rich natural heritage that the country possesses. Her book “Looking for Transwonderland” not only entertains but also educates readers about the diverse landscapes and wildlife that Nigeria has to offer.
Identity and Ethnicity
Noo Saro-Wiwa’s introspective reflections on identity and ethnicity in Nigeria offer a unique perspective on the complexities of her homeland. Nigeria’s diverse ethnic landscape has played a significant role in shaping her experiences and perceptions.
In her discussions, Noo Saro-Wiwa delves into the intricacies of her identity as a Nigerian of a minority ethnic background. She shares her experiences of feeling like a foreigner within her own country, a sentiment she attributes to the pronounced emphasis on ethnic distinctions in Nigerian society. She notes, “In Nigeria, you are more aware of the ethnic differences, especially in Northern Nigeria, where the dominant religion is also different.”
Nigeria’s societal fabric is woven with the threads of ethnic diversity, and this reality often influences interactions, perceptions, and even politics. Noo’s personal experiences highlight the relevance of ethnicity in Nigerian society and its role in shaping individual identities. She reflects on the implications of ethnicity, saying, “You’re not Muslim, you’re not Igbo, etc. You wonder about the implications.” Her candid insights provide a glimpse into the complexities of identity in a nation that celebrates its diversity but also grapples with the challenges it presents.
Noo Saro-Wiwa’s exploration of identity and ethnicity in Nigeria adds depth to the understanding of the intricate tapestry of Nigerian society. Her experiences and observations shed light on the dualities and nuances of belonging and otherness within the context of a nation marked by its rich diversity.
A Place of Refuge and Asylum Seekers
Noo Saro-Wiwa’s dedication to shedding light on the plight of asylum seekers and refugees finds expression in her contribution to the anthology titled “A Place of Refuge.” This collaborative work serves a vital purpose: to challenge the prevailing narrative surrounding asylum seekers by highlighting positive stories that often go untold.
The anthology “A Place of Refuge” aims to counteract the negative portrayal of asylum seekers in the media and public discourse by focusing on the positive aspects of their experiences. Noo Saro-Wiwa’s essay within the anthology, titled “A Time to Lie,” is a thought-provoking exploration of the complexities faced by refugees when navigating the asylum-seeking process. Her essay takes a closer look at why some refugees might resort to bending the truth when presenting their stories to authorities.
In “A Time to Lie,” Noo Saro-Wiwa underscores the nuanced decisions that refugees are forced to make in their quest for safety and asylum. Her words resonate with the broader refugee narrative, shedding light on the intricate web of circumstances that compel individuals to make difficult choices. The essay serves as a powerful reminder of the humanity and resilience of those seeking refuge, challenging stereotypes and misconceptions that often cloud the public perception of asylum seekers.
Noo Saro-Wiwa’s contribution to “A Place of Refuge” aligns with her commitment to amplifying the voices of marginalized communities and advocating for a more compassionate understanding of the challenges faced by asylum seekers. Her essay offers valuable insights into the complexities of the refugee experience and invites readers to empathize with those forced to make difficult decisions in their pursuit of safety and refuge.
Bellagio Residency and Upcoming Projects
Noo Saro-Wiwa’s recent accolade, the prestigious Bellagio Residency by the Rockefeller Foundation, stands as a testament to her commitment to her craft and her ongoing exploration of pressing global issues. This recognition offers a glimpse into her aspirations and the potential impact of her forthcoming endeavours.
The journey to securing a Bellagio Residency was not one that Noo Saro-Wiwa had initially envisaged. It was the writer Yewande Omotoso, whose family shared close ties with hers, who encouraged her to apply for this esteemed residency. The application process required Noo Saro-Wiwa to delineate her career trajectory, outlining her past achievements and future projects. Among these forthcoming endeavours is a compelling book that delves into the lives of Africans in China.
Noo Saro-Wiwa’s choice of the Bellagio Residency programme speaks volumes about her dedication to generating social change through her work. The residency provides a unique opportunity for interdisciplinary collaboration, allowing her to engage with individuals from diverse fields. The prospect of working alongside professionals from various disciplines holds the potential to amplify the impact of her projects, extending their reach beyond the realm of literature.
The Bellagio Residency by the Rockefeller Foundation represents a pivotal moment in Noo Saro-Wiwa’s career, offering her the space and resources to delve deeper into critical topics. Her commitment to exploring the experiences of Africans in China hints at her unwavering dedication to amplifying underrepresented voices and shedding light on complex global issues. As she embarks on this new chapter, her work continues to be a force for change, fostering a deeper understanding of the world we inhabit.
